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Late Gothic and Early Italian Renaissance

c. 1425 - 1485

Russell, Douglas Costume History and Style; chapter 11, pp. 176-194


Bevor/ or Beavor: A moveable face piece of armor attached to helmets in the fifteenth and sixteenth centuries. When lowered it protected the face from swords and lances.

Biretta: A stiff, square cap with three or four points projecting from the crown.  It was worn by the clergy as well as by academics. Today birettas are worn in purple by bishops, red by cardinals, and black by priests on non formal occasions.

Butterfly Headdress:  Semitransparent linen, draped and wired to resemble a butterfly, worn over a tall hennin.

Escoffion: a tall richly brocaded headdress, sometimes shaped like  two horns, sometimes like a narrow, tall turban, usually had a veil of fine lawn about a yard wide.

Liripipe: Still retained from the chaperon as a tail of material coming from the donut shape of the roundlet and draping under the chin and over one shoulder.

Pourpoint: The name usually given to the short jacket with a pleated skirt of this period. Sleeves were either full at the top and tapering to the wrists, open and hanging behind a tight undersleeve, or slashed to allow the arm to come through.

Roundlet:  The donut-shaped, turbanlike headdress worn by most men of fashion until the later part of the fifteenth century.

Sideless Gown: This gown, cut away under the arms to the hips, was usually covered with armorial bearings  and remained as the ceremonial dress for women during this period.

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