At first glance Romans often look very like the Greeks, and as has been
noted, Greek ideals did have a strong influence on Roman culture. But as
with architecture and sculpture, the Romans in their dress were more
interested in images of grandeur and power as well as comfort and variety
than in the Greek ideals of grace and beauty. Thus Roman clothing had the
draped lines of the Greeks without their simplicity, subtlety, and beauty.
The women's clothing was closest to the Greek with the chiton transformed
into the stola and the himation into the palla. Although sometimes the
sleeves of the stola were still pinned rather than sewn, the Roman ladies
were much more apt to have the lines of the stola cut in a T-shape for
comfort and practicality. Fabrics were still primarily linen or wool, but
by the Empire Period, wealthy ladies were dressed in costly silk imported
overland from China. The most characteristic quality of Roman female
dress was the size, variety, and complexity of the Roman matron's
coiffure. Here decoration, display, individual ingenuity, and the vagaries
of personal taste created coiffure confections that sometimes defy
analysis. We know that Roman women were adept with curling irons,
hairnets, dyes, switches, hairpins, and even blonde wigs made from the
tresses of captured German women. Imperial female hairstyles epitomized
the Roman sense of display.
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Summary
Rome was the great cultural bridge between Greek civilization and that
which was to develop in northern and Western Europe. It was through Rome
that most information about the Greeks was filtered in medieval and
Renaissance times. In the archaeological revivals of the eighteenth and
nineteenth centuries, it was Roman, rather than Greek classicism that was
the major source of inspiration in clothing, furniture, and interior
design. Even in the twentieth century when we have moved beyond the
beaux-arts tradition with its eclectic use of Roman columns, capitals,
pediments, and domes, we are still surrounded by Roman eagles, Roman
mottoes, Roman practicality in building and engineering, and Roman ideals
of business, finance, administration, and government. Roman dress, though
similar to the Greek, was based on symbolism combined with a certain
pragmatic practicality and lacked the beauty and fluid grace of Greek
clothing at its best. Under the Republic it remained austere, simple, and
symbolic. Under the Empire, however, it added richness and the symbols of
grandeur and power until late imperial dress took on an almost Eastern
magnificence in color, texture, and ornament. Roman dress took the beauty
of draping that was the ideal of the Greeks and placed it at the service
of symbolism and power imagery.
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