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Early Christian and Byzantine


A.D. 324 - 1453

Russell, Douglas Costume History and Style; chapter 6, pp. 88-103

Glossary:

Camisa or chemise: An undergarment with long sleeves that showed beneath the sleeves of the outer garment for women.

Cassock: Originally derived from the Hebrew cassock and the Roman-Gaulish caracalla, it became the daily wear of the dignified and elderly.  It was retained by the Church after the change in lay fashions in the seventh and eighth centuries.  It is now the ordinary dress of the Roman Catholic and, to a more limited extent, the Church of England clergy, upon which eucharistic and processional vestments and monastic habit are superimposed.  Its color-black, purple, red, back with pippings, or white indicates rank-priest, bishop cardinal, pope.  Monks’ cassocks are the color of the habit of the order.

Chasuble: Outermost, and one of the most important liturgical, garments of the Catholic Church.  Its shape has varied by period and country, but it is essentially a cape of silk or metallic cloth (never linen or cotton), with a hole for the head, shortened at the sides to the shoulder to leave the arms uncovered, and falling down the front and back.  Derived from the Roman paenula or consula, it was also a barbaric garment to ward off bad weather.

Cope:A liturgical vestment of the Catholic Church and a choir vestment of some Anglican churches, it is a semicircular cape that is embroidered or brocaded and fastened across the chest by a wide ornamental band.  This is sewn to one edge and hooked or pinned by a jeweled morse to the other.  It has a vestigial hood or embroidered flap hanging down the back.  It usually substitutes for the chasuble in all ceremonies outside the mass.

Dalmatic: A knee-length, wide-sleeved ecclesiastical gown slit up the sides, it derives from the Roman dalmatica and is decorated with two vertical stripes over the shoulder to the hem taken from the augusta clavi of Roman dress.  The dalmatic of a bishop is fringed on both sides and sleeves, and that of a deacon is fringed on the left side and sleeve only.  Since the fourth century the dalmatic has been a vestment worn as a festal garment during mass, benedictions, and precessions.  It can be worn under chasuble, never under the cope.

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