c. 1485 - 1520
Russell, Douglas
Costume History and Style; chapter 11, pp. 176-194
Silhouette
As one would guess from the
brief discussion of the differences between the court of Burgundy and the
city of Florence between 1425 and 1485, the basic costume silhouette in
each setting was quite distinct, even though there are areas in which
they did resemble each other. The Renaissance clothing of Italy, like the
art of the time, stressed simplicity, balance, and an emphasis on the
natural form. While Gothic costume was reaching a final climax of
development at the court of Burgundy, the Renaissance in Florence
brought a revival of many classical concepts to the dress of Italy. By the
middle of the fifteenth century the Florentines were integrating certain
classical ideals with motifs and silhouettes inherited from the north. The
early Renaissance style stressed the horizontal over the vertical, the
simple and geometric over the complex and decorative, earth tonalities
over bright heraldic color, and a natural silhouette over exaggerated and
artificial lines. The new Italian Renaissance view of dress underlined
the concept that beauty lay in a rational and harmonious relationship of
all parts of the costume rather than in decoration for its own sake. ... ...
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Summary
This period of the High renaissance marked the rapid assimilation of
Italian styles into northern fashion after the first French invasions of
Italy and the changed in Italian fashion from the loose, youthful look of
the last decade of the fifteenth century to the full, rounded, relaxed
fullness and maturity of the first two decades of the sixteenth century.
In Italy it was one of the great golden ages in the history of the west,
comparable in its balance and idealism with the Golden Age in
fifth-century Athens. All of its arts, including costume, were dominated
by the artistic ideals projected by Bramante, Raphael, Michelangelo, and
Leonardo da Vinci--the great geniuses of the time. That artistic ideal was
to use circularity, unity, balance, and dignity to achieve a noble
grandeur and maturity; clothing styles also reflected this idea. In the
north this rounded fullness and mature dignity was less apparent as
Italian ideals and motifs were integrated with late medieval silhouettes
and forms.
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